Sartène, described as the “most Corsican of all Corsican towns” by French novelist Prosper Mérimée, clings to the hillside of the Alta Rocca mountains. The first glimpses of the town are impressive, as the gray granite houses, rising up before you, appear to have grown out of the very rock they stand upon.
Over the centuries, Sartène’s cobbled streets, squares and alleyways have born witness to a tempestuous past – piracy, invasions, beheadings and bloody feuds. In fact, the word “vendetta” is believed to have originated here in the 19th century when the feuding became so extreme that French troops were brought in to keep the peace.
Today, Sartène is famous for its Good Friday Procession, when an anonymous penitent, dressed in a scarlet robe and hood and dragging chains from his feet, heaves a large wooden cross through the streets.
Don’t be misled though to thinking that Sartène is a sober place. Far from it, it is also famous for its wine, said to be the best on the island. Ones to look out for include those from Domaine Fiumicicoli and Domaine Saparale. For a superb selection of local wines and Corsican products, including some wonderful cheeses and charcuterie, visit La Cave Sartenaise, beneath the Hôtel de Ville (town hall) on place de la Liberation (commonly known by its former name of place Porta). Once home to a guillotine, it is now a lovely shady square, with a few shops, restaurants and palm trees, the Sainte Marie church and a wonderful view across the valley.
From the square a tunnel, leading under the town hall, which was once the Genoese governor’s palace, brings you the oldest part of the town. This is the Santa Anna quarter. Move on, past the rather touristy place du Maggiu, to find the 12th century watchtower and a maze of narrow cobbled alleyways; the perfect place to wander if looking to catch a glimpse of ancient Corsica in this, the most Corsican of towns.
More images from Sartène
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