Squeals of excitement and endless questions followed, as I informed my two daughters, Hannah and Georgia, that this May half-term we were going on holiday to the French island of Corsica. We’d be spending the week in a beautiful villa with our own private pool, perched up on the mountains and within a short distance of white sand beaches with turquoise blue waters. My husband Neal quickly opened up the brochure, then logged onto the website, presenting the girls with vivid images of what to expect. Then the four of us eagerly settled down to plan our next adventure…..
For the girls, it would be their very first visit and, for Neal and I, it would be our long-awaited return to the island we had once visited pre children. Back then, we had enjoyed a wonderful holiday in Calvi in the north, and so to have this last-minute opportunity to stay in the Valinco Gulf on the south-west coast, was a really exciting prospect.
Flying out of Heathrow on a Sunday morning to Figari, it wasn’t long before the familiar dramatic mountain peaks and shimmering bays of the island’s impressive coastline were in full view as we began our descent.
Arriving in Olmetto and our beautiful villa
Our rep Mia was ready to greet us, as we swiftly made our way through the pleasingly small and unbusy airport, picked up our car and headed off into the sunshine. The 1½ hour drive to our villa in Olmetto was a wonderful experience – I had been told that the south-west coast is one of the most beautiful with its unspoilt, rugged landscape and we weren’t disappointed. Making our way along the narrow roads, our first stop was a viewing point at Cap de Roccapina (the Lion rock) where an impressive naturally formed rock in the shape of a giant lion, sat imposingly on the top of one the soaring jagged cliffs, looking peacefully out to sea. Below, the white sand beach was empty. After a few snaps and quick refreshments by the roadside ‘not-so-cheap’ snack bar, we continued merrily on our journey.
Bergerie Olivella
Winding our way up through the mountains to the pretty town of Sarterne then Propriano before climbing further up to the outskirts of Olmetto, we finally arrived at our villa, Bergerie Olivella, perched on the hillside.
Bigger than we had expected, our bergerie had a large open-plan kitchen/living area with memorizing views out across the forested mountains to the bay of Propriano below. Inside was beautifully furnished with stylish fixtures and fittings and each of the bedrooms capitalised on the views, with sliding glass doors onto the patio area.
Bergerie Olivella
Having not stopped at one of the few supermarkets open on a Sunday, we were grateful for our Welcome Pack which included soft refreshments, local wine and beer along with pasta, bread, local ham and cheeses, jams, biscuits and condiments. BUT first on our list was a swim in the pool and just a few steps down to the lower level garden, our pool, with a view to die for, awaited us.
The sleepy seaside town of Porto Pollo
The next morning Mia stopped by and helped us plan our next few days. Tearing ourselves away from the serenity and comfort of our villa was tough, however we knew the beaches below had to be seen and so off we set for Porto Pollo on the eastern side of the gulf.
This small sleepy seaside resort was totally unspoilt. Running onto its small white sand bay, we found the beach was empty, bar the odd passerby. After a refreshing dip in the sea, we had the choice of sun loungers in one of the beach side restaurants from where we sat and admired the view. This has got to be the best time of year to visit – no crowds, no trouble parking and perfect temperatures. Heading back we passed by several sandy coves and beach-side restaurants.
Tapas and moules in Propriano
Having decided to eat in the port of Propriano, we parked-up and had a walk along its harbour-front lined with a mix of exclusive yachts and more modest fishing boats. Being a departure point for boat trips and water-sports it’s a good place to watch the world go by. The marina had a good choice of restaurants offering an inviting atmosphere and our tapas and moules were simply delicious.
Moules by the marina, Propriano
Idylic Campomoro
On the southern side of the gulf, Campomoro, was our next visit. Just a half hour drive winding our way around the mountains, this beautiful small bay is crowned at one end by a Genoese watch tower, the islands’ largest. Descending down towards the beach, the view is simply stunning. The perfectly curved bay has a small number of restaurants and shops as well as a tiny piazza and church. The chiming of the church bell struck home just how idyllic this seaside village is and watching the locals playing boules captured the atmosphere perfectly.
Campomoro
The waters of the gently shelving beach were flat calm, ideal for young children, and its crystal-clear waters great for snorkelling. On the beach there’s also a diving school and we watched groups of scuba divers head out to sea.
Atmospheric Olmetto
Olmetto, however, was our nearest town, just a five minute drive away. Clinging to the cliffs, this tiny sleepy village with just two main streets has incredible views from its steep position. The sheer drop below made it hard to imagine how it was built all those years ago. There are a couple of good restaurants including La Source offering simple but tasty cuisine and the ‘old Corsica’ feel of Olmetto makes it a lovely option for dining out.
Laid back Abbartello
Scanning our guide book we took a leisurely drive along a series of little coves and stopped off at Abbartello where we dined in a pretty seaside restaurant, La Crique, just above a small beach. There was a good variety of dishes and a welcoming laid back atmosphere – great for families with children.
La Crique, Abbartello
La Crique, Abbartello
The East Coast
Over to the east coast to Porto Vecchio and Palombaggia beach – As I had heard lots about the bustling town of Porto Vecchio on the east coast and the nearby famed Palombaggio beach, we put a day aside to explore the other side of the island ending up in Bonifacio for dinner on our way back.
Palomobaggio
Palomobaggio
Porto Vecchio was just over 2 hours drive from our villa and lived up to our expectations. With a buzzing, seaside atmosphere and pretty cobbled streets, it has plenty of harbourside restaurants and chic boutiques. After a tour of the town we made our way over to Palombaggio. The drive weaving through to the beach was beautiful with blue skies, tropical plants, brooks and streams and was well signposted and clearly evident why it’s part of a protected nature site. We parked up in the free car park, among the pine trees, and made our way onto the beach. It was easy to see why it was voted one of Europe’s top beaches, fine white sand and azure waters enclosed by mixed shapes and shades of pink granite rocks beautifully carved by the elements – the perfect setting for a James Bond movie. Strong winds had picked up but this didn’t prevent us from soaking up the sunshine and our swim. While sipping my cool glass of Corsican beer at Chez Pierre, which has to be one of best beach bars, just a few feet from the water’s edge, we agreed the vista was well worth the visit.
Historic Bonifacio and the perfect end to a perfect week
Bonifacio Harbour
On to Bonifacio, on the island’s southernmost tip, which we were keen to explore before dinner. Perched high on limestone cliffs, this historic town in its spectacular setting has to be seen. The cafés around the harbours are a great place to people watch however climbing up the many steps to the historic old town and citadel, with its narrow cobbled streets buzzing with restaurants, was our highlight. The atmosphere was wonderful, little alleyways packed with candle-lit tables creating a magical scene. Heading back over the drawbridge we reluctantly made our way home.
Bonifacio Citadel
Bonifacio Citadel
Our week of exploring all to quickly came to an end but flicking through our collection of happy photos, all in such fabulous settings, I think there is a very strong chance that we’ll be back!
If the girls can do it, then so can we!
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